Tuesday, September 30, 2014
1999 Dodge durango 5.9ltr Timing chain and Water pump repair
here are some videos of my progress on the 1999 dodge durango that i am currently working on. we found that the water pump had failed and we decided to check out the timing chain also and this is what we found.
Thursday, September 25, 2014
Nissan 240sx turbo drift car update
last night we inspected the car n found that the accident damage was less then we thought. the rocker panel on the passenger side was in better shape. the A pillar was in worse shape then we thought. the hydrolic ram we used was more then enough to push out the rocker and most of the A pillar.
Tuesday, September 23, 2014
Sunday, September 21, 2014
DIY Cold Air Intake 2006 Chrysler 300 2.7 V6
Here is a quick guide to what we installed on a 2006 Chrysler 300, the stock intake on the 300's are restrictive. in theory the more air you can get into the engine the better, if the computer can adjust correctly for the added air flow. the installation of this intake was a home made style. we cut the rubber intake tube back past the ribbed part. we used a after market honda cold air intake tube with a cone filter. here are the videos below. we took it on a test drive. the sound of this v6 with the air intake is nice deep growl thru the rpm range. the upper range sounds really good, we noticed the acceleration was improved also.
Tuesday, September 16, 2014
1998 Dodge Durango 5.2lt Magnum Cold Air Intake Installation
well i finally installed my home made cold air intake setup i still have to make a heat shield. at the moment i used a spectre cold air intake for a honda n a cone filter. i removed the air box and used the stock hose to the air box to save some money. yes i know im getting hot air from the engine compartment but not for long the filter is currently thru the opening in the inner fender so maybe 30 % of the filter is in the engine compartment at the moment. the whole job didnt take but 30mins n cost around 40.00.
Sunday, September 14, 2014
1998 Dodge Durango 5.2ltr Tune up on 9/15/14
i recently purchased this kit from summit racing http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-867815/overview/model/b350 and http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g5233 i just have to pick up some spark plugs. ill post a video of my progress and the parts and my review of the installation.
project 1972 Chevrolet Nova update
heres a minor update
today we reinstalled the doors and the core support installed. the next part of the project will be picked up in a few weeks we have a bmw to paint along with the 240sx drift car
today we reinstalled the doors and the core support installed. the next part of the project will be picked up in a few weeks we have a bmw to paint along with the 240sx drift car
Saturday, September 13, 2014
Nissan 240sx drift car repair
1972 Chevrolet Nova Disc brake Conversion kit MBM DBK6472 & DBK6267 Review and installation
Disc brake Conversion kit MBM DBK6472 & DBK6267 the cost of the kit was 659.99. the whole kit was purchased with the brake master and booster with proportion valve. the overall installation was pretty much straight forward for the disc brake and booster and master. but the proportion valve installation was a bit of a problem although it was pretty simple. in the instructions it doesnt tell you that you need to reduce the rear brake line to match the newer brake proportioning valve, you also have to bend the brake lines to make them fit also. the other part of this which they dont tell you is that you need to purchase a new 3/16 hard line for the driver side to the brake proportioning valve. the total install time of this kit was under 4hrs once we had all the parts n bleed the brakes.
here is a video of how the kit looks with it installed in a 1972 Chevrolet nova.
here is a video of how the kit looks with it installed in a 1972 Chevrolet nova.
Thursday, September 11, 2014
3G Alternator Upgrade Ford Mustang 1987 to 1993
i recently performed this upgrade on my 1987 ford mustang gt convertible. the whole process took 45min after i had purchased all the necessary parts to perform the upgrade. the problem with the third generation ford mustangs is the 2g alternator that puts out 75-85amp depending on which one you get. the problem starts when you use the heater or head lights at the same time. the alternator can not handle the output. i was experiencing this issue. i installed an aftermarket digital volt meter. at idle with no accessories i would have 14.1 down to 13.5 i know that most ford products like to have 13.8-14.4 to operate correctly. i had an opportunity to perform the upgrade while my car was getting prepped for paint. i know i should have taken of video of the process but i took a video after in which i describe the whole process. the hardest part was finding a long enough cable to reach from the passenger side of the engine to the driver side. i did some research online throw countless forums, blogs. what i found is everyone want me to use the 10 foot positive cable to hide it just like the factory. well i thought to myself i can get the longest cable i can find and make it work. some say its the lazy approach by in my case it works for me..lol if i did this for someone else i would use a longer cable or use to short cables with a fuse holder. lets get down to the parts required to perform the upgrade. PS you can also use the stock belt it will work no need for a longer belt
1. 3G alternator (Mercury Sables and Taurus 1995-00 will work, or just buy one for a 1994-1995 mustang 5.0) best tip is to go to a wreaking yard or picknpull n get a good used alternator they usually cost less then 50 that way vs new ones from 85-145. its your money but 9 times out of 10 most vehicles in the wreaking yard have brand new alternators on them common part to replace.
2. 72in negative battery cable or 10 foot positive cable (both will work) or 2 6ft positive cables
3. MEGA Fuse Part # MEG125
4. convoluted wiring loom (parts stores have them)
5. a fuse holder for the mega fuse
6. grinder or cut off wheel
7. a nut and bot for the top mounting location (the newer alternators are not threaded)
8. wire connector for the new style alternator
9. butt connector
here is a diagram of the 3g wiring
Lets assume you have all the required parts? here we go.
1. remove the serpentine belt
2. remove the top alternator belt
3. remove the bottom alternator bolt
4. disconnect the wiring from the back of the alternator
5. test fit the new slightly larger 3G alternator
6. you will notice the case of the alternator is bigger and will hit the alternator bracket. use a sharpe
to mark the aluminum bracket to notch it out so that the case of the alternator can clear.
7. use the diagram above to wire your new alternator
8. reinstall the alternator
9.the belt will be alittle tight but it will work without breaking
10. rout the positive cable over to the charging side of the solenoid.
11. undo the old charging cable.
12. bolt down the charging cable ( or as i did mount the maxi fuse to the solenoid then bolt the charging cable to the other side of the maxi fuse)
13. wrap the charging cable with the maxi fuse in black electrical tape plus convoluted wiring loom cover
14. start it up n verify the voltage is steady
15. put a load on the alternator to verify that the new alternator is keeping up.
here is my video i took afterwards
1. 3G alternator (Mercury Sables and Taurus 1995-00 will work, or just buy one for a 1994-1995 mustang 5.0) best tip is to go to a wreaking yard or picknpull n get a good used alternator they usually cost less then 50 that way vs new ones from 85-145. its your money but 9 times out of 10 most vehicles in the wreaking yard have brand new alternators on them common part to replace.
2. 72in negative battery cable or 10 foot positive cable (both will work) or 2 6ft positive cables
3. MEGA Fuse Part # MEG125
4. convoluted wiring loom (parts stores have them)
5. a fuse holder for the mega fuse
6. grinder or cut off wheel
7. a nut and bot for the top mounting location (the newer alternators are not threaded)
8. wire connector for the new style alternator
9. butt connector
here is a diagram of the 3g wiring
Lets assume you have all the required parts? here we go.
1. remove the serpentine belt
2. remove the top alternator belt
3. remove the bottom alternator bolt
4. disconnect the wiring from the back of the alternator
5. test fit the new slightly larger 3G alternator
6. you will notice the case of the alternator is bigger and will hit the alternator bracket. use a sharpe
to mark the aluminum bracket to notch it out so that the case of the alternator can clear.
7. use the diagram above to wire your new alternator
8. reinstall the alternator
9.the belt will be alittle tight but it will work without breaking
10. rout the positive cable over to the charging side of the solenoid.
11. undo the old charging cable.
12. bolt down the charging cable ( or as i did mount the maxi fuse to the solenoid then bolt the charging cable to the other side of the maxi fuse)
13. wrap the charging cable with the maxi fuse in black electrical tape plus convoluted wiring loom cover
14. start it up n verify the voltage is steady
15. put a load on the alternator to verify that the new alternator is keeping up.
here is my video i took afterwards
1995-1999 dodge plymouth neons common issues n repairs
i have owned n worked on at least 20+ neon's. they are a cheap n affordable car to own and maintain.
i have compiled from personal experience with owning n working on these cars a basic guide to keep your dodge neon running. most dodge neons will fall victim to the speedometer problem or dash cluster problem, most automatic dodge neons will have a transmission failure at some point, there are other issues dodge neons have.
to start off with the dash cluster problem the neons have a bad solder joints on the circut board you can repair it your self but its hard to spot the break unless you know what you are looking for most clusters fail around 175k-200k. you are driving along, the speedo is working just fine then all of a sudden it suddenly drops to 0? or does your dash cluster work when it wants to? here is the solution it takes less then 10mins with the parts in hand.
1. go to your local wreaking yard and purchase a new cluster under 150k they normally work just fine (if you do this please make sure to keep the old cluster for verification of mileage i do not condone rolling odometers back to make a profit) the cost of the cluster should be less then 60.00 depending on your area
2. u will need a long Phillips screw driver
3. lift up on the dash cover by the dash cluster it will pop up out of the way
4. remove the 4 screws holding the dash cluster in place
5. gentle remove the cluster from the car
6. reverse procedure
7. confirm the cluster is working as it should
Automatic transmission issues
the transmission in these neons is the 604e its the same dodge has used for years. they often fail around 100-200k depending on maintenance and service history. you will start to notice the transmission slowly engaging reverse gear, sudden slam when going into reverse, lack of 3rd gear, slamming thru the gears, slipping, reverse is gone but the forward gears work just fine. i had one like that. i have found a simple transmission cooler will prolong the life of this transmission, they have issues with heat and the solenoid packs.
Average cost of a used and new transmission
Used 250-500 depending on mileage best bet is to get one that has around 80-120k
New 1800.00
shop labor for this job should be right around 400-500
Timing belt Replacement
the dodge 2.0 sohc and dohc engines are interference engine which means if the belt breaks its a good chance for bent valves. they should be changed 80-100k with the water pump. the average cost of the timing set with the pump is usually right around 100-125. dodge claims you can get 100k out of the timing belt if normal driving habits but i have seen them break at 75k so i always tell people to check the belt once a year to see if it cracking or fraying, any signs of that its time to change it.
Shop labor to change the timing belt calls for 3-5hrs depending if you have ac, or you have the DOHC engine with ac. stuff like that. most shops will charge 400-500 for the whole job.
if you attempt to change the belt your self there are guides out there. i have done a few its not that hard just time consuming.
Common No Start
Asd relay (auto shut down relay)
Fuel pump relay and fuse
Ecm Fuse
Fuel pump
Crank sensor
Camshaft sensor
TPS sensor
Case study
1995
dodge
neon
141k
automatic
problems starting, hard start, fuel pump not priming but works fine after hard start.
i recently worked on the car, the fuel pump would only work after you held the key in the start position for under a minute. checked fuel pressure had nothing with key on prime test. had 35 psi while cranking and running. had new fuel pump installed along with new fuel filter (yes they do have one its located by the gas tank) 1995-1996 models have a steel gas tank, 1997 and newer have a plastic tank.
Solution
the computer wasnt supplying a ground signal to the ASD relay which controls the Fuel pump relay. i used a standard fog light relay and wired it to have a key on ground (which means the second the car you turn the key to run the fuel pump would prime) after i installed the relay the car started fine every time after that.
i have compiled from personal experience with owning n working on these cars a basic guide to keep your dodge neon running. most dodge neons will fall victim to the speedometer problem or dash cluster problem, most automatic dodge neons will have a transmission failure at some point, there are other issues dodge neons have.
to start off with the dash cluster problem the neons have a bad solder joints on the circut board you can repair it your self but its hard to spot the break unless you know what you are looking for most clusters fail around 175k-200k. you are driving along, the speedo is working just fine then all of a sudden it suddenly drops to 0? or does your dash cluster work when it wants to? here is the solution it takes less then 10mins with the parts in hand.
1. go to your local wreaking yard and purchase a new cluster under 150k they normally work just fine (if you do this please make sure to keep the old cluster for verification of mileage i do not condone rolling odometers back to make a profit) the cost of the cluster should be less then 60.00 depending on your area
2. u will need a long Phillips screw driver
3. lift up on the dash cover by the dash cluster it will pop up out of the way
4. remove the 4 screws holding the dash cluster in place
5. gentle remove the cluster from the car
6. reverse procedure
7. confirm the cluster is working as it should
Automatic transmission issues
the transmission in these neons is the 604e its the same dodge has used for years. they often fail around 100-200k depending on maintenance and service history. you will start to notice the transmission slowly engaging reverse gear, sudden slam when going into reverse, lack of 3rd gear, slamming thru the gears, slipping, reverse is gone but the forward gears work just fine. i had one like that. i have found a simple transmission cooler will prolong the life of this transmission, they have issues with heat and the solenoid packs.
Average cost of a used and new transmission
Used 250-500 depending on mileage best bet is to get one that has around 80-120k
New 1800.00
shop labor for this job should be right around 400-500
Timing belt Replacement
the dodge 2.0 sohc and dohc engines are interference engine which means if the belt breaks its a good chance for bent valves. they should be changed 80-100k with the water pump. the average cost of the timing set with the pump is usually right around 100-125. dodge claims you can get 100k out of the timing belt if normal driving habits but i have seen them break at 75k so i always tell people to check the belt once a year to see if it cracking or fraying, any signs of that its time to change it.
Shop labor to change the timing belt calls for 3-5hrs depending if you have ac, or you have the DOHC engine with ac. stuff like that. most shops will charge 400-500 for the whole job.
if you attempt to change the belt your self there are guides out there. i have done a few its not that hard just time consuming.
Common No Start
Asd relay (auto shut down relay)
Fuel pump relay and fuse
Ecm Fuse
Fuel pump
Crank sensor
Camshaft sensor
TPS sensor
Case study
1995
dodge
neon
141k
automatic
problems starting, hard start, fuel pump not priming but works fine after hard start.
i recently worked on the car, the fuel pump would only work after you held the key in the start position for under a minute. checked fuel pressure had nothing with key on prime test. had 35 psi while cranking and running. had new fuel pump installed along with new fuel filter (yes they do have one its located by the gas tank) 1995-1996 models have a steel gas tank, 1997 and newer have a plastic tank.
Solution
the computer wasnt supplying a ground signal to the ASD relay which controls the Fuel pump relay. i used a standard fog light relay and wired it to have a key on ground (which means the second the car you turn the key to run the fuel pump would prime) after i installed the relay the car started fine every time after that.
Wednesday, September 10, 2014
1991 BMW 525I M50
well i purchased a 1991 Bmw 525i for 800.00 off of craiglist in 2013, the story behind this car was interesting so i thought i would share it. the person i bought it from his dad had passed away so this car was given to his son. his son drove the bmw for 2 years or so. well when the bmw was parked at the storage facility that i bought it from. he parked it because a repair shop quoted him 4000 to fix the problem that seemed really high to me. i figured it was something small n stupid. ill get to the repair later on. we preceded to jump start the car after it sat for 4yrs in this field at the storage facility. the bmw fired right up after sitting for 4yrs. i was surprised it started at all to be honest well as soon as it started all of a sudden the idle shot right up to 3000rpm and started climbing so i immediately shut it off. the owner i purchased it from wanted 1300 for it but the catch was he was leaving town so he couldn't really mess with trying to sell it any longer. i offered him 800 cash. he talked to his wife and she agreed to the price with a catch i had to keep the car for as long as i could n to make sure if i were to sell it contact him. so i agreed, came back with a tow truck n loaded it on the trailer. the car didnt look good due to sitting in the field. it looked like a chea pet to be honest. i fired up the pressure washer and cleaned it off. looked great after that. i was surprised to find that all the repair history in the glove box dating back to 1991. so i proceeded to check out the idle problem. i fired it up again listening quickly for a vacuum leak n guess what i found? the idle air control vavle O ring to the plastic intake had cracked and broke. as i stood there in shock that a 2.00 fix was the problem the whole time i proceded to contact the repair shop that quoted the son 4000 to fix it. i gave them the owners name and plate number i talked to the repair shop owner and i asked him ( are you serious it was a 2.00 fix, the owner of the repair shop stated thats how i make my money sir, i responded again to him well that explains why people think BMW are expensive to work on its all a price scam as i laughed, the owner of the repair shop hung up on me) the owner of the shop knew this car and the original owners. by this time i was excited i dropped in a new battery and fresh spark plugs and coil boots and valve cover gasket. i drove it down to the emission station along the way the check engine light came on, i pulled over did the gas pedal stomp 5 times it flashed the code and guess what it turned out i had a minor vacuum leak again. i had come to far on expired tabs. i pulled over in a church parking lot, i popped the hood disconnected the battery for 5 mins and reset the computer i knew they had to do a sniffer test on this bmw as they couldnt scan it. so as i pulled in i started talking to the person doing the test he was a cool guy i gave him 20 n didnt get change back..lol
he seen the expired tabs and asked me how i got down here without a trip permit. i told him what happened n how i purchased the car, as he was doing the test i noticed he pulled the sniffer out for a second n slammed it back in. 2 mins go by then he states good new you passed. i responded thanks man. as i pulled away from the emission station i remembered i didnt get my 5 back but then i thought to myself he just made 5 off of me oh well i passed emissions on 4 yr old gas...lfmao
during the time i owned the car i replaced the tires and the brake master and the muffler ended up plugging up so being that i passed emissions anyway. i decided to remove the muffler n have a peice of straight pipe installed. come to find out stock straight 6 m50 non vanos have dual exhaust. the second i heard it fire up without the muffler i loved it. the car had alot more power now. it would get ass happy in the rain. it was a really fun car to drive and yes i do miss it. it went to a good home i wast told but come to find out the bmw was impounded less then 24 hrs after i sold it to him. the person whom bought it waited 3 days to call me n beg me to get it out of impound for him. i told him sorry i dont have 400 to get it out of impound. i asked him what he was doing come to find out he was drifting with it in lakewood wa of all places. as i was hanging up on him i told him sorry cant do that for you. so in closing this bmw was a good running and reliable car. here are some of the videos i took of it
he seen the expired tabs and asked me how i got down here without a trip permit. i told him what happened n how i purchased the car, as he was doing the test i noticed he pulled the sniffer out for a second n slammed it back in. 2 mins go by then he states good new you passed. i responded thanks man. as i pulled away from the emission station i remembered i didnt get my 5 back but then i thought to myself he just made 5 off of me oh well i passed emissions on 4 yr old gas...lfmao
during the time i owned the car i replaced the tires and the brake master and the muffler ended up plugging up so being that i passed emissions anyway. i decided to remove the muffler n have a peice of straight pipe installed. come to find out stock straight 6 m50 non vanos have dual exhaust. the second i heard it fire up without the muffler i loved it. the car had alot more power now. it would get ass happy in the rain. it was a really fun car to drive and yes i do miss it. it went to a good home i wast told but come to find out the bmw was impounded less then 24 hrs after i sold it to him. the person whom bought it waited 3 days to call me n beg me to get it out of impound for him. i told him sorry i dont have 400 to get it out of impound. i asked him what he was doing come to find out he was drifting with it in lakewood wa of all places. as i was hanging up on him i told him sorry cant do that for you. so in closing this bmw was a good running and reliable car. here are some of the videos i took of it
Rebuilding a 1988 GMC S-15
back in 2011 my dad and i purchased a 1988 s 15 for 100.00 with a title. the truck had not been on the road in over 7 years. we had to obtain and engine and transmission with a new gas tank. we purchased another engine and transmission and gas tank from a guy on Craigslist. this process took us about 4 months to install the engine and transmission and painted. we also had the full exhaust system from the other s-10. the body of the truck was in decent condition the rust was really bad on the roof. the color we painted it was a blue metallic. i cleaned and sanded the engine compartment n painted that, the box had been removed and the frame was sanded and painted also. the front and rear bumpers were sanded and painted black irid old color we found in our paint collection. the truck turned out really nice. we ended up selling it for over 1600.00 cash. also we had new tires and cleaned up the rims also.the interior cleaned up really well also. new carpet installed also.
here is a time lapse video of our work on the s-15 plus other videos of it.
here is a time lapse video of our work on the s-15 plus other videos of it.
Building a Drift car Nissian 240sx
we recently painted a Nissan 240sx for a customer. he had a custom full
roll cage threw the whole car. custom front and rear bumpers also. he
had test fitted a LS1 engine with a 6 speed manual transmission. the
customer wanted the car white with a purple roll cage. this whole
process to pain took just under 2 1/2 weeks to complete lots of sanding
and body repair. here is the video of the whole process.
Anyone say Racing and Demo Derby's from western washington state
Small Car Demo
Random stalling, Random Dieing, Hard starts and no start Problems common issues
does your vehicle start n run when cold but suddenly stalls or dies when warm? is your check engine light on? have you gotten your vehicle scanned? does your vehicle start at all? the 1st thing you should do is get a scanner and scan your car. if you can pull the codes from the computer that will greatly help you in the process of diagnosing the issue at hand. if you dont have a scanner you can rent one from any auto part stores for cheap or get a cheap Bluetooth scanner i have the ELM327 Bluetooth model that i use with my smart phone. i use torque its available on Google play.
1. Get a scanner (rent or buy)
2. Scan your vehicle
3. write down the codes
4. Google the check engine light codes
5. let the fun begin
lets start this off with. the crank shaft sensor (ckp) known to cause random stalling, misfire,suddenly dies when warm, only starts when cold. the sensor is generally located on the engine block lower but some of them are located in the bell housing (jeeps n dodge products) the sensor is pretty easy to change depending on its location with Volkswagen jetta 1996 and above the are located behind the oil filter. GM 3.8 are located behind the Harmonic balancer.
Camshaft Sensor
its job is to make sure the car stays in time, lack of a camshaft signal will cause the engine to be sluggish,misfire, no fuel pump signal on some models of neons it controls the signal for the computer to turn on the fuel pump for initial prime. also the cam shaft sensor controls timing also. location varies based on make and model
Throttle Position Sensor (tps)
its job is to control the amount of fuel being added to the engine, also controls shift points, provides data to the computer to allow proper operation. lack of a tps will cause poor gas mileage, lack of power, backfiring, stumbling, hard shifting, lack of shifting into over drive (jeep with the 4.0 automatics have this problem it will not shift into over drive without a tps signal) the vehicle may not start at all, its located on the throttle body (where the throttle cable connects)
Idle Air Control (iac)
the job of the is to control the amount of air coming into the engine at idle or wide open throttle pulls or normal operation. if this control module stops functioning then you will have an erratic idle, stumbling, dieing when coming to a stop suddenly, lack of performance, gas mileage will suffer.
its always best to pull the IAC once every few years depending on driving habits to clean it and the port out using carburetor cleaner. usually located on the throttle body.
EGR Valve
the job of the EGR is to control the exhaust gas recycle. the exhaust gas's are passed thru the valve to control how much of the exhaust is recycled. if the valve is stuck closed the exhaust gas's cannot go anywhere can cause the vehicle to run rich, if the valve is stuck open the engine will run lean. if the egr is faulty it will cause the gas mileage to drop, will cause idle issue's, lack of performance.use google to locate where your EGR is on your make and model
Oxygen Sensor (O2 sensor)
the job of O2 sensors are to regulate the amount of fuel being added to the engine as its running. if the sensors are malfunctioning the engine will run either rich or lean. these will throw a code. if code p0420 comes up then its a fault with the catalytic converter or the rear O2 sensor it will say bank 1 of 2 for rear and bank 1 of 1 for front. bank 2 of 1 is the passenger side upper, bank 2 of 2 is the passenger side rear
Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF)
the job of the MAF is to measure the amount of air coming into the engine all the time. signs of a faulty MAF will include the following
1. starts but dies when you give it gas
2. lack of performance
3. poor gas milage
4. random stalling
5. random dieing
6. running rich or lean
7. will cause a backfire in the engine (pop noise)
if your MAF is bad its easy to locate its generally on the intake hose that goes from the air box to the throttle body. one of the most picky ones are Ford and Mazda's in general they will die the second you press on the gas pedal. you can normally get a good used one at any wreaking yard for under 60.00, the price of a new one can be from 125.00-300.00 depending on make and model
Manifold Absolute Pressure (Map)
the Manifold absolute pressure is one of the sensor used in an engine electronic control system. Engines that use a MAP sensor are typically fuel injected. The manifold absolute pressue sensor provides instantaneous manifold pressure information to the engine's (ECU). The data is used to calculate air density and determine the engine's air mass flow rate, which in turn determines the required fuel metering for optimum combustion and influence the advance or retard of ignition timming. A fuel-injected engine may alternately use a mass air flow sensor (MAF sensor) to detect the intake airflow. A typical configuration employs one or the other, but seldom both.
MaP sensor data can be converted to air mass data using the speed-density method. Engine speed (RPM) and air temperature are also necessary to complete the speed-density calculation. The MaP sensor can also be used in obd (on-board diagnostics) applications to test the egr (exhaust gas recirculation) valve for functionality, an application typical in OBD II equipped General Motors engines.
if this sensor fails for any reason it will cause the engine to run really rich or really lean. this should throw a code. its pretty easy to locate. it will have a vacuum line running to it with a connector near the intake manifold or on the mustangs 1987 it will be on the firewall by the brake booster. on some dodge products its located on the intake manifold itself, same as gm 3.8 with the plastic instale
Ignition Control Module (ICM)
the job of the ICM is to control spark to the engine and control ignition timing. these control modules are normally located on the engine with the coil pack as in the 3.8 series 1,2,3 or in the distrubutor on your older ford or gm product, on s-10, s-15,blazers and jimmy's its located on the intake to the passenger side no larger then a 50 cent coin.
here are some signs it might be bad (sometimes they throw a code but often they dont)
1. Random stalling
2. dies when warm
3. Rough idle when warm
4. cylinder misfires random or 2 cylinders at once
5. lack of performance
6. hesitation
7. No start
Boost control solenoid
this controls the boost level on series 1,2,3 supercharged 3.8 engines using the eaton supercharger. signs of a fault BCS will have a code, will either have no boost or over boosting which isnt a good thing either way. the average cost of this solenoid is about 25-45 on ebay or amazon, if you can find a good used one that is another way also. its normally located on the supercharger toward the radiator side it has 2 vacuum lines running to it with a electrical connector
well i hope this info has helped u out in some way
1. Get a scanner (rent or buy)
2. Scan your vehicle
3. write down the codes
4. Google the check engine light codes
5. let the fun begin
lets start this off with. the crank shaft sensor (ckp) known to cause random stalling, misfire,suddenly dies when warm, only starts when cold. the sensor is generally located on the engine block lower but some of them are located in the bell housing (jeeps n dodge products) the sensor is pretty easy to change depending on its location with Volkswagen jetta 1996 and above the are located behind the oil filter. GM 3.8 are located behind the Harmonic balancer.
Camshaft Sensor
its job is to make sure the car stays in time, lack of a camshaft signal will cause the engine to be sluggish,misfire, no fuel pump signal on some models of neons it controls the signal for the computer to turn on the fuel pump for initial prime. also the cam shaft sensor controls timing also. location varies based on make and model
Throttle Position Sensor (tps)
its job is to control the amount of fuel being added to the engine, also controls shift points, provides data to the computer to allow proper operation. lack of a tps will cause poor gas mileage, lack of power, backfiring, stumbling, hard shifting, lack of shifting into over drive (jeep with the 4.0 automatics have this problem it will not shift into over drive without a tps signal) the vehicle may not start at all, its located on the throttle body (where the throttle cable connects)
Idle Air Control (iac)
the job of the is to control the amount of air coming into the engine at idle or wide open throttle pulls or normal operation. if this control module stops functioning then you will have an erratic idle, stumbling, dieing when coming to a stop suddenly, lack of performance, gas mileage will suffer.
its always best to pull the IAC once every few years depending on driving habits to clean it and the port out using carburetor cleaner. usually located on the throttle body.
EGR Valve
the job of the EGR is to control the exhaust gas recycle. the exhaust gas's are passed thru the valve to control how much of the exhaust is recycled. if the valve is stuck closed the exhaust gas's cannot go anywhere can cause the vehicle to run rich, if the valve is stuck open the engine will run lean. if the egr is faulty it will cause the gas mileage to drop, will cause idle issue's, lack of performance.use google to locate where your EGR is on your make and model
Oxygen Sensor (O2 sensor)
the job of O2 sensors are to regulate the amount of fuel being added to the engine as its running. if the sensors are malfunctioning the engine will run either rich or lean. these will throw a code. if code p0420 comes up then its a fault with the catalytic converter or the rear O2 sensor it will say bank 1 of 2 for rear and bank 1 of 1 for front. bank 2 of 1 is the passenger side upper, bank 2 of 2 is the passenger side rear
Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF)
the job of the MAF is to measure the amount of air coming into the engine all the time. signs of a faulty MAF will include the following
1. starts but dies when you give it gas
2. lack of performance
3. poor gas milage
4. random stalling
5. random dieing
6. running rich or lean
7. will cause a backfire in the engine (pop noise)
if your MAF is bad its easy to locate its generally on the intake hose that goes from the air box to the throttle body. one of the most picky ones are Ford and Mazda's in general they will die the second you press on the gas pedal. you can normally get a good used one at any wreaking yard for under 60.00, the price of a new one can be from 125.00-300.00 depending on make and model
Manifold Absolute Pressure (Map)
the Manifold absolute pressure is one of the sensor used in an engine electronic control system. Engines that use a MAP sensor are typically fuel injected. The manifold absolute pressue sensor provides instantaneous manifold pressure information to the engine's (ECU). The data is used to calculate air density and determine the engine's air mass flow rate, which in turn determines the required fuel metering for optimum combustion and influence the advance or retard of ignition timming. A fuel-injected engine may alternately use a mass air flow sensor (MAF sensor) to detect the intake airflow. A typical configuration employs one or the other, but seldom both.
MaP sensor data can be converted to air mass data using the speed-density method. Engine speed (RPM) and air temperature are also necessary to complete the speed-density calculation. The MaP sensor can also be used in obd (on-board diagnostics) applications to test the egr (exhaust gas recirculation) valve for functionality, an application typical in OBD II equipped General Motors engines.
if this sensor fails for any reason it will cause the engine to run really rich or really lean. this should throw a code. its pretty easy to locate. it will have a vacuum line running to it with a connector near the intake manifold or on the mustangs 1987 it will be on the firewall by the brake booster. on some dodge products its located on the intake manifold itself, same as gm 3.8 with the plastic instale
Ignition Control Module (ICM)
the job of the ICM is to control spark to the engine and control ignition timing. these control modules are normally located on the engine with the coil pack as in the 3.8 series 1,2,3 or in the distrubutor on your older ford or gm product, on s-10, s-15,blazers and jimmy's its located on the intake to the passenger side no larger then a 50 cent coin.
here are some signs it might be bad (sometimes they throw a code but often they dont)
1. Random stalling
2. dies when warm
3. Rough idle when warm
4. cylinder misfires random or 2 cylinders at once
5. lack of performance
6. hesitation
7. No start
Boost control solenoid
this controls the boost level on series 1,2,3 supercharged 3.8 engines using the eaton supercharger. signs of a fault BCS will have a code, will either have no boost or over boosting which isnt a good thing either way. the average cost of this solenoid is about 25-45 on ebay or amazon, if you can find a good used one that is another way also. its normally located on the supercharger toward the radiator side it has 2 vacuum lines running to it with a electrical connector
well i hope this info has helped u out in some way
Body Panel Replacement instructions
have you ever thought about replacing a door or fender or hood or trunk lid or bumper cover front and rear? the whole process isnt that hard here is a quick guide to help you along the way.
starting with Doors and fenders
your vehicle has 2 hinges, 4-6 blots that hold the hinges to the vehicle, might have to remove the fender in some cases. open the door and look at the hinges can you access the bolts? if you can then it just got really easy, make sure you have a marker so u can mark the hinges locations, if you do not mark the location it will make reassembly a pain to get it all to line up. if you cannot access the bolts to the hinges then you will have to remove the fender 1st most newer car if you need to remove the fenders you have to start by opening the hood, look at the fender you are removing there should be bolts running down the length of the fender. you will also need to look at the attachment points to the bumper cover in the front of the car. also you will have to take the tire off if possible to remove the inner splash shield to gain access to the hidden bolts inside of the fender 1 upper and two lower generally. some cases the head light has to come out (Dodge,plymouth, stratus,neons,sebrings,avengers are this way) check online to make sure. once you have removed the fender. gently set it to the side. the door is the tricky part make sure u mark the hinges on the A Pillar with a marker. with the help of someone make sure the door is closed and latched at 1st. remove the bolts holding the door on, if you have power windows or speakers in your door there will be wires going into the A piller remove the kick panel and locate the connector and disconnect it. before removing the door remove the door stay usually its just a flat curved piece of metal with a pin holding it in place remove the pin. now with help holding the door, reach to open the door and while holding the door set it down. to repeat the process just go in reverse order.
Hood and deck lid
here is a quick guide on hoods. lets say you have a nasty dent in the hood or the deck lid (trunk lid) and you dont have the money to have it painted n repaired what do you do? well go thru your local wreaking yard or yards to locate the same color as your car with a good hood. once you have the panel the next step is to remove yours. open the hood or the trunk u will want to mark the location of the hinges with a marker. failure to do so will result in about 1 hour or so of re-aliment. 4 bolts hold your hood on with either mini struts also depending on your vehicle. once you have removed the bolts and struts if equipped. with 2 people gentle remove the hood or deck lid from the car repeat this procedure to complete the job
Front and Rear Bumper covers
most modern cars have plastic bumper covers which are held in place by Clips and nuts. this job is pretty easy to do. back in the 80s the auto manufacturers moved away from steel bumpers to a more refined look. lets start with your cover you want to remove. depending on make and model it can take as little as 30min to have your cover over or it can take as long as 1hr to take it off. best tip i can give you is use google for instructions pertain to your make and model but i can tell u 9 out of 10 times there is gonna be a hidden fastener or clip up in the fender or on the header panel (where the head lights,grill area) on ford mustangs this process is kinda simple remove the retaining bolts on the top of the header panel then remove the bolts underneath the cover by the fender were they bolt together. the header panel will want to come with it. so you have to remove the headlights and turn signals also. but of your make and model doesnt call for that then dont worry. the rear covers are alot easier to remove they have hidden bolts behind the rear plastics in the trunk and screws to the fender on the inner slash shield. once you have removed either or do no damage the Styrofoam attached to the bumper reinforcement bar that is your 5-15 mile an hour protecting right there..lol reverse process to complete.
Basic tools for this job
Socket set
Wrench set
needle noise plyers
dykes
flat tip and Philips screw driver
Patience this is the big one
starting with Doors and fenders
your vehicle has 2 hinges, 4-6 blots that hold the hinges to the vehicle, might have to remove the fender in some cases. open the door and look at the hinges can you access the bolts? if you can then it just got really easy, make sure you have a marker so u can mark the hinges locations, if you do not mark the location it will make reassembly a pain to get it all to line up. if you cannot access the bolts to the hinges then you will have to remove the fender 1st most newer car if you need to remove the fenders you have to start by opening the hood, look at the fender you are removing there should be bolts running down the length of the fender. you will also need to look at the attachment points to the bumper cover in the front of the car. also you will have to take the tire off if possible to remove the inner splash shield to gain access to the hidden bolts inside of the fender 1 upper and two lower generally. some cases the head light has to come out (Dodge,plymouth, stratus,neons,sebrings,avengers are this way) check online to make sure. once you have removed the fender. gently set it to the side. the door is the tricky part make sure u mark the hinges on the A Pillar with a marker. with the help of someone make sure the door is closed and latched at 1st. remove the bolts holding the door on, if you have power windows or speakers in your door there will be wires going into the A piller remove the kick panel and locate the connector and disconnect it. before removing the door remove the door stay usually its just a flat curved piece of metal with a pin holding it in place remove the pin. now with help holding the door, reach to open the door and while holding the door set it down. to repeat the process just go in reverse order.
Hood and deck lid
here is a quick guide on hoods. lets say you have a nasty dent in the hood or the deck lid (trunk lid) and you dont have the money to have it painted n repaired what do you do? well go thru your local wreaking yard or yards to locate the same color as your car with a good hood. once you have the panel the next step is to remove yours. open the hood or the trunk u will want to mark the location of the hinges with a marker. failure to do so will result in about 1 hour or so of re-aliment. 4 bolts hold your hood on with either mini struts also depending on your vehicle. once you have removed the bolts and struts if equipped. with 2 people gentle remove the hood or deck lid from the car repeat this procedure to complete the job
Front and Rear Bumper covers
most modern cars have plastic bumper covers which are held in place by Clips and nuts. this job is pretty easy to do. back in the 80s the auto manufacturers moved away from steel bumpers to a more refined look. lets start with your cover you want to remove. depending on make and model it can take as little as 30min to have your cover over or it can take as long as 1hr to take it off. best tip i can give you is use google for instructions pertain to your make and model but i can tell u 9 out of 10 times there is gonna be a hidden fastener or clip up in the fender or on the header panel (where the head lights,grill area) on ford mustangs this process is kinda simple remove the retaining bolts on the top of the header panel then remove the bolts underneath the cover by the fender were they bolt together. the header panel will want to come with it. so you have to remove the headlights and turn signals also. but of your make and model doesnt call for that then dont worry. the rear covers are alot easier to remove they have hidden bolts behind the rear plastics in the trunk and screws to the fender on the inner slash shield. once you have removed either or do no damage the Styrofoam attached to the bumper reinforcement bar that is your 5-15 mile an hour protecting right there..lol reverse process to complete.
Basic tools for this job
Socket set
Wrench set
needle noise plyers
dykes
flat tip and Philips screw driver
Patience this is the big one
Power Window Problems and Diagnosis
most of us have experienced this problem at least once in our life. ever been driving along and it starts to rain and your window doesnt go up? ive been there. how about its 100 outside and your ac just stopped, u couldnt roll down your window? well here is the best way to confirm that your power windows are not working as they should it might be an easy fix with a new switch or it could be the power window motor and regulator.
1. do your power windows work as they should? (go up and down just fine)
2. do your power windows sometimes go down and not come back up (check the switch and check the connection at the motor in the door you have to remove the door panel to do this step)
3. do your power window not want to go up (check the switch and connections as in step 2)
4. is the window stuck in the up or down position and u dont hear a click from the door panel you have to listen to check this
5. does your window while going up or down look like its going sideways or off track is the term (the regulator might be the problem most modern cars have a cable system in them and often more times then not, the plastic guides have failed.
6. if you push the switch off to one side does the power window work (replace the switch)
7. if your power windows do not work at all have you checked the fuses and relays (they are located either in the vehicle compartment on the drive side kick panel or the passenger side kick panel or in the glove box on some gm cars and on the driverside dash by the A piller n door Dodge Neons and some gm and fords
8. replacing the power window motor and regulator with ones out of a wreaking yard is a cheap and affordable way to correct the problem average cost 29.99-49.99 depending on where you go. if you purchase new they range from 80-150 a side
the tools required to perform this job are very basic set of hand tools
screw driver
flat tip screw driver
basic socket set
a door panel removal tool it looks like V with a handle most parts stores have them even harbor freight or tool place will for under 15.00
torx bit set
here is a tip when you are trying to pull the door panel off make sure you get all the clips that hold it on DO NOT PULL HARD until you are sure they are no more clips or Screws holding it on. Always Check Google for more specific instructions to your make and model
1. do your power windows work as they should? (go up and down just fine)
2. do your power windows sometimes go down and not come back up (check the switch and check the connection at the motor in the door you have to remove the door panel to do this step)
3. do your power window not want to go up (check the switch and connections as in step 2)
4. is the window stuck in the up or down position and u dont hear a click from the door panel you have to listen to check this
5. does your window while going up or down look like its going sideways or off track is the term (the regulator might be the problem most modern cars have a cable system in them and often more times then not, the plastic guides have failed.
6. if you push the switch off to one side does the power window work (replace the switch)
7. if your power windows do not work at all have you checked the fuses and relays (they are located either in the vehicle compartment on the drive side kick panel or the passenger side kick panel or in the glove box on some gm cars and on the driverside dash by the A piller n door Dodge Neons and some gm and fords
8. replacing the power window motor and regulator with ones out of a wreaking yard is a cheap and affordable way to correct the problem average cost 29.99-49.99 depending on where you go. if you purchase new they range from 80-150 a side
the tools required to perform this job are very basic set of hand tools
screw driver
flat tip screw driver
basic socket set
a door panel removal tool it looks like V with a handle most parts stores have them even harbor freight or tool place will for under 15.00
torx bit set
here is a tip when you are trying to pull the door panel off make sure you get all the clips that hold it on DO NOT PULL HARD until you are sure they are no more clips or Screws holding it on. Always Check Google for more specific instructions to your make and model
Engine Noises and Diagnosis
Noises from the engine can be a bad thing. most people dont understand what the noises mean. here is a list and what they mean.
1. Clicks (normal often from the injectors)
2. Excessive Ticking (not normal) possible overheated once or bad oil, lots of miles,failing lifters or valve springs
3. Upper end Pinging Knocking slight (possible bad fuel or sensor related)
4. slight thumping Noise coming from the lower engine near the serpentine belt (check your accessories, alternator, water pump,AC pump,power steering pump
5. squeakily noise (change the belt, also inspect the tensioners)
6. Grinding with a thumping noise (locate the noise if its coming from the accessories then locate which one, if its coming from the engine then locate upper or lower end
7. Loud Upper end knocking (connecting rod wrist pin)
8. Lower end knock (Connecting rod bearing or crankshaft bearing
9. Sucking noise (Check for vacuum leaks)
10. Whining Noise (power steering pump most fords have this noise its a ford thing, if it gets worse when you turn or louder suggest replacing the pump)
11. Pat Pat noise (exhaust leak look at the exhaust manifolds or fold check for white or black marks around the head to the manifold)
1. Clicks (normal often from the injectors)
2. Excessive Ticking (not normal) possible overheated once or bad oil, lots of miles,failing lifters or valve springs
3. Upper end Pinging Knocking slight (possible bad fuel or sensor related)
4. slight thumping Noise coming from the lower engine near the serpentine belt (check your accessories, alternator, water pump,AC pump,power steering pump
5. squeakily noise (change the belt, also inspect the tensioners)
6. Grinding with a thumping noise (locate the noise if its coming from the accessories then locate which one, if its coming from the engine then locate upper or lower end
7. Loud Upper end knocking (connecting rod wrist pin)
8. Lower end knock (Connecting rod bearing or crankshaft bearing
9. Sucking noise (Check for vacuum leaks)
10. Whining Noise (power steering pump most fords have this noise its a ford thing, if it gets worse when you turn or louder suggest replacing the pump)
11. Pat Pat noise (exhaust leak look at the exhaust manifolds or fold check for white or black marks around the head to the manifold)
Fuel System Diagnosis and Repair
here is a quick guide on how to check your fuel system. the basic operation of a fuel system is to supply the engine with fuel. if one or more part of the system is not working correctly may or may not run correctly or random stalls or suddenly dies and doesn't start. i have found thru years of working on cars that fuel pumps either die all of a sudden or they slowly die as in our 1996 jeep we had it started out that it wouldn't have any get up and go at high end but it would drive just fine. then it slowly started to get worse as time went on, one day my wife was driving it n it completely refused to go any higher then 1400 rpm without choking out. when i checked it with a fuel pressure tester. it had 15 pounds of pressure. the jeep required 45 psi at idle. here are the basics to check to confirm its working as it should.
1. Does the vehicle start and run? (then you are probably fine but you should check fuel pressure at the injector rail on the engine)
2. Does the fuel pump Prime when you turn the key to on? (if it doesnt prime then you may have a bad pump or blown fuse or bad relay)
3. have you checked all the connections, relays,fuse's?
4. have you changed the fuel filter in the past year?
5. have you checked the fuel pressure yet (there is a valve stem looking thing) hook up the gauge to it make sure its Finger tight. turn the key to the on position and check the pressure if the pressure doesnt build then there is the problem, or if it does build does it hold pressure? does the pressure only go to the low side of what the vehicle calls for use google for this)
6. if the pump isnt turning on and you have verified that the pump is non operational then the next step is to see if you can easily remove the pump or if you have to drop the tank most newer cars there is an access hole in the trunk or under the back seat.
7. obtain a new pump assembly if possible or a good used one major price difference
8. google the directions to change your fuel pump
9. follow number 2,3,4,5
10. you just saved about 500 doing it yourself vs a shop at part plus labor
1. Does the vehicle start and run? (then you are probably fine but you should check fuel pressure at the injector rail on the engine)
2. Does the fuel pump Prime when you turn the key to on? (if it doesnt prime then you may have a bad pump or blown fuse or bad relay)
3. have you checked all the connections, relays,fuse's?
4. have you changed the fuel filter in the past year?
5. have you checked the fuel pressure yet (there is a valve stem looking thing) hook up the gauge to it make sure its Finger tight. turn the key to the on position and check the pressure if the pressure doesnt build then there is the problem, or if it does build does it hold pressure? does the pressure only go to the low side of what the vehicle calls for use google for this)
6. if the pump isnt turning on and you have verified that the pump is non operational then the next step is to see if you can easily remove the pump or if you have to drop the tank most newer cars there is an access hole in the trunk or under the back seat.
7. obtain a new pump assembly if possible or a good used one major price difference
8. google the directions to change your fuel pump
9. follow number 2,3,4,5
10. you just saved about 500 doing it yourself vs a shop at part plus labor
1965 Datsun Roadster (Fairlady) Restoration
we recently restore a 1965 datsun roadster fairlady for a customer. the car had been sitting since 1985. the owner is the second owner of the car. the total amount of the restoration with parts and labor was 40k. we did a full frame off restoration in under 2yrs time. the hardest part was rebuilding the 1500cc 3 main engine. we couldnt find someone to hot tank the engine, we installed new bearings. rings, seals, timing chain, oil pump, checked the cam and crank for wear. the engine had maybe 80k total. this datsun had twin Hitachi carburetors, the carbs were also rebuilt. the exhaust system this is were the owner let me pick it out he is in his 70s now but he is still a kid at heart, we put on 2in exhaust thats all that would fit in the x frame match up to a mild 2 chamber muffler. it sounds great. the car had been totaled back in the late 70s so there was bondo 5 in thick in the front end. the rocker panels were bondo also. we redid the rocker panels made new ones. the fenders were in pretty bad shape we made patch panels and used very little bondo in the whole car. its 99% metal now all the way around the car. i could go on for days about this car but the last thing i can say is that the parts for this car are expensive and rare i have found only 2 distributors of parts in western USA.
here are the videos of the datsun thru out the whole process
here are the videos of the datsun thru out the whole process
Dodge Durango and Dakotas DIY Repairs and Common problems 1998-2001
Here is a list of common issues and videos that plague Dodge durango's and Dakota's. for the most part the dodge line of durangos are pretty rock solid but there are a few fail points that i can tell you about and how to correct them. below will be videos of simple maintenance and repairs.
1. Transmission failure (due to lack of service at the correct time, solenoid pack failure in the valve body there is warning when this is happening lack of overdrive, lack of reverse, or harsh shifts)
2. ECU (computer) there is a known failure with the computers on these which will cause random stalling or dieing suddenly and not restarting until the computer has cooled down, phantom codes in the computer.
3. ABS system there are a few fail points most common is the wheel speed cylinders located up front on both hubs and the rear axle housing.
4. coil failure due to excessive heat
5. tps failure
6. crankshaft sensor failure (located on the passenger side behind the distributor on the engine block and trans housing
7. cooling system issues (rust and sludge build up)
8. Timing chain (should be performed every 100k)
9. Oil pressure sensor malfuntion
10. Fuel pump sending unit failures
11. Rear end failures
12. front diff failures
with the check list above you should keep an eye on these. here are some helpful videos
1. Transmission failure (due to lack of service at the correct time, solenoid pack failure in the valve body there is warning when this is happening lack of overdrive, lack of reverse, or harsh shifts)
2. ECU (computer) there is a known failure with the computers on these which will cause random stalling or dieing suddenly and not restarting until the computer has cooled down, phantom codes in the computer.
3. ABS system there are a few fail points most common is the wheel speed cylinders located up front on both hubs and the rear axle housing.
4. coil failure due to excessive heat
5. tps failure
6. crankshaft sensor failure (located on the passenger side behind the distributor on the engine block and trans housing
7. cooling system issues (rust and sludge build up)
8. Timing chain (should be performed every 100k)
9. Oil pressure sensor malfuntion
10. Fuel pump sending unit failures
11. Rear end failures
12. front diff failures
with the check list above you should keep an eye on these. here are some helpful videos
1987 Ford mustang GT Rescue
well this project has been a long time in the making. i purchased a 1987 Ford mustang Gt convertible from a couple just a few doors down from my parents house. they were about to scrap it out. the car had been sitting for 5 plus years. when i purchased the car it didnt run or drive or have brakes..lol
i paid 200.00 for it with a promise that i wouldnt scrap it out. i towed it back to my dads house were i spent just over a year getting it running again. here is what i had to do and what i have left i also have videos of the mustang when i purchased it up to as of a month ago. here is some of the back story on this mustang. in 2004 the car was stolen from the couple i bought it from. they recovered the car 2 weeks later at a police impound. the husband had no idea how to work on cars. he pulled the brake system apart trying to figure out why it wouldn't stop and that's where he got stuck but what he didn't tell me is that the transmission had been damaged in the pursuit with the cops. the passenger door was dented in pretty bad but there wasnt any A or B pillar damage.
1. Drain flush the gas tank
2. New fuel pump (used a new pump a jeep yes it does fit and work and correct pressure)
3. New transmission (old one was destroyed during a pursuit)
4. new passenger side door
5. rebuilt the front and replaced the rear bumper cover
6. new radiator
7. new brake master
8. new front brakes complete with cross drilled and slotted rotors
9. new brake lines front and rear
10. new gas filler neck groumet
11. new tires
12. new temp gauge
13. upgraded to the 3G alternator from a 1999 mercury sable
14. Painted hot rod satin black
15. 2.5 in free flow exhaust (offroad h-pipe, No Mufflers)
16. aftermarket tail lights
17. white face dash kit
work needed to finish
1. new convertible top
2. new carpet kit (black kit not red)
3. recover the seats with black leather
4. rear disc brake conversion (no 5 lug conversion)
5. sub-frame stiffeners
6. New intake setup (wanting the performer 2 intake)
7. New distributor (i want a new one with different ignition control mod)
8. different struts (fully adjustable preferred)
this car has been in my posession for the last 2 yrs thats saying alot for me i usually sell them long before then. this is part of a project so i can have a both of the iconic 80s muscle cars Ford Vs Chevrolet. next project will be a late 80s Camaro Z28 with a 6 speed trans.
Mustang GT Convertible Videos
Pics video from start to current
i paid 200.00 for it with a promise that i wouldnt scrap it out. i towed it back to my dads house were i spent just over a year getting it running again. here is what i had to do and what i have left i also have videos of the mustang when i purchased it up to as of a month ago. here is some of the back story on this mustang. in 2004 the car was stolen from the couple i bought it from. they recovered the car 2 weeks later at a police impound. the husband had no idea how to work on cars. he pulled the brake system apart trying to figure out why it wouldn't stop and that's where he got stuck but what he didn't tell me is that the transmission had been damaged in the pursuit with the cops. the passenger door was dented in pretty bad but there wasnt any A or B pillar damage.
1. Drain flush the gas tank
2. New fuel pump (used a new pump a jeep yes it does fit and work and correct pressure)
3. New transmission (old one was destroyed during a pursuit)
4. new passenger side door
5. rebuilt the front and replaced the rear bumper cover
6. new radiator
7. new brake master
8. new front brakes complete with cross drilled and slotted rotors
9. new brake lines front and rear
10. new gas filler neck groumet
11. new tires
12. new temp gauge
13. upgraded to the 3G alternator from a 1999 mercury sable
14. Painted hot rod satin black
15. 2.5 in free flow exhaust (offroad h-pipe, No Mufflers)
16. aftermarket tail lights
17. white face dash kit
work needed to finish
1. new convertible top
2. new carpet kit (black kit not red)
3. recover the seats with black leather
4. rear disc brake conversion (no 5 lug conversion)
5. sub-frame stiffeners
6. New intake setup (wanting the performer 2 intake)
7. New distributor (i want a new one with different ignition control mod)
8. different struts (fully adjustable preferred)
this car has been in my posession for the last 2 yrs thats saying alot for me i usually sell them long before then. this is part of a project so i can have a both of the iconic 80s muscle cars Ford Vs Chevrolet. next project will be a late 80s Camaro Z28 with a 6 speed trans.
Mustang GT Convertible Videos
Recharing your AC 1995 or Newer with R134a
this is a simple guide to recharge your failing AC in your vehicle. most new cars can be recharged easily. what happens is over time the seals being to leak R134a its common for this to happen thats why after 5-10 yrs of your vehicles life that the ac slowly stops working efficiently. lets start off by checking the basics 1st. here is a video guide also Recharge AC R134A
Instructions
1. verify you vehicle has R134a (use google)
2. locate your underhood fuse block
3. look for AC related relays and fuses
4 verify the fuses and relays are good
5. locate your ac pump usually located at towards the bottom of your engine mounted on the side
6. make sure your ac pump is in tact as in the connectors and hoses are firmly connected
7. check your AC lines from the pump to the heat exhanger located in the front by the radiator.
8. locate the LOW side Fill Port (usually these are close to the pump but use Google to locate the exact location)
9. Go to Wal-Mart and purchase a Can of R134a recharge for AC ( $20-$30) it should have a gauge and a hose attachment on it. Wal-Marts is usually the cheapest but you can go to the parts stores but expect to pay 10 to 20% more for the can.
10. once you are ready to begin use gloves and safety glasses
11. connect the hose from the can of ac recharge to the low side input for the AC
12. Start the Vehicle and turn the AC on and place the fan speed on HIGH
13. check the gauge on the can it should read below 25lbs in the system or less
14. hold the button on top of the AC recharge can while shaking it at the same time
15. you should notice the can getting cold and the ac pump starts to make some noise dont worry this is a good sign
16. the ac clutch on the compressor should have kicked on by now keep adding until you are in the BLUE range anywhere between 30-38lbs is fine
17. once you are within this range disconnect the AC recharge can
18. get in your Vehicle to verify you have working AC again
this process should be completed at least 1 every 3-5 yrs to ensure you have a properly working ac system. if you have recharged your system and you still dont have ac please read the following instructions
1. is the compressor clutch working (check the Relays and Fuses)
2. Verify the AC electric fan is working (check that relay and fuse also sometimes if the system cannot turn that fan it the system will not work at all its a fail safe circut)
3. the compressor clutch isnt engaging (AC Compressor is bad, you need to replace it)
4. have the dealership scan the vehicle to find the problem n to check it out pay the service fee and if the repair can be done by you. you will save alot of money if you can do the repair yourself.
5. leaky condenser (replace the condenser)
6. Leaky hoses (replace the hoses)
7. Faulty low pressure (replace the switch)
8. Faulty heat exchanger (in the front of the vehicle) replace it
Instructions
1. verify you vehicle has R134a (use google)
2. locate your underhood fuse block
3. look for AC related relays and fuses
4 verify the fuses and relays are good
5. locate your ac pump usually located at towards the bottom of your engine mounted on the side
6. make sure your ac pump is in tact as in the connectors and hoses are firmly connected
7. check your AC lines from the pump to the heat exhanger located in the front by the radiator.
8. locate the LOW side Fill Port (usually these are close to the pump but use Google to locate the exact location)
9. Go to Wal-Mart and purchase a Can of R134a recharge for AC ( $20-$30) it should have a gauge and a hose attachment on it. Wal-Marts is usually the cheapest but you can go to the parts stores but expect to pay 10 to 20% more for the can.
10. once you are ready to begin use gloves and safety glasses
11. connect the hose from the can of ac recharge to the low side input for the AC
12. Start the Vehicle and turn the AC on and place the fan speed on HIGH
13. check the gauge on the can it should read below 25lbs in the system or less
14. hold the button on top of the AC recharge can while shaking it at the same time
15. you should notice the can getting cold and the ac pump starts to make some noise dont worry this is a good sign
16. the ac clutch on the compressor should have kicked on by now keep adding until you are in the BLUE range anywhere between 30-38lbs is fine
17. once you are within this range disconnect the AC recharge can
18. get in your Vehicle to verify you have working AC again
this process should be completed at least 1 every 3-5 yrs to ensure you have a properly working ac system. if you have recharged your system and you still dont have ac please read the following instructions
1. is the compressor clutch working (check the Relays and Fuses)
2. Verify the AC electric fan is working (check that relay and fuse also sometimes if the system cannot turn that fan it the system will not work at all its a fail safe circut)
3. the compressor clutch isnt engaging (AC Compressor is bad, you need to replace it)
4. have the dealership scan the vehicle to find the problem n to check it out pay the service fee and if the repair can be done by you. you will save alot of money if you can do the repair yourself.
5. leaky condenser (replace the condenser)
6. Leaky hoses (replace the hoses)
7. Faulty low pressure (replace the switch)
8. Faulty heat exchanger (in the front of the vehicle) replace it
Heater Core Diagnoses
the job of a heater core is to supply heat to your vehicle and provide cooling for the engine. the heater functions as a heat exchanger. cooling system maintenance is an important part of your vehicle maintenance. here is a case study:
1999
Mercury
Sable
190k
Complaints
lack of heat on high speed of the fan
heat would come out for 5 to 10 mins before it would go to cold
Problems found
verified the heater core wasnt leaking, verified the coolant was in good condition.
found the return hose for the heater core was warm not hot as the in let side.
Solution
Removed the heater core hoses located at the firewall.
used a garden hose to flush the heater core during this process i noticed rust and sludge coming from the outlet side of the heater core. flushed the heater core until clear water was coming out. repeated process for 30 mins flushing the heater core both in n out lets. reconnected the heater core. topped off the coolant. ran the vehicle at 2500 for 5 mins to warm the engine up. verified i had heat on high let the car idle for 30 mins still had heat.
some cases with the heat core being bad will have the following
1. smell of antifreeze when heater is in use
2. fog on the windshield plus the smell of antifreezr
3. passenger side floor will be wet
4. inlet hose will be hot but the outlet hose will be colder
5. vehicle runs slightly warmer then normal
6. lose of coolant over time
7. lack of heat
Proper flushing instructions
1. wait until vehicle has cooled down
2. remove the inlet and out let hose from the heater core at the firewall or engine compartment. making sure you have a drain pan to catch the antifreeze that will leak out.
3. using a garden house or small amount of air pressure from a blower will work also but both together will work the best.
4. being flushing the heater connect the house to one side at a time. repeat this for 30mins or longer depending on how bad your heater core is.
5. reconnect the hoses after you flushed the heater core
6. top off the coolant
7. run the engine until normal operation temperature verify you have heat
8. check for leaks
1999
Mercury
Sable
190k
Complaints
lack of heat on high speed of the fan
heat would come out for 5 to 10 mins before it would go to cold
Problems found
verified the heater core wasnt leaking, verified the coolant was in good condition.
found the return hose for the heater core was warm not hot as the in let side.
Solution
Removed the heater core hoses located at the firewall.
used a garden hose to flush the heater core during this process i noticed rust and sludge coming from the outlet side of the heater core. flushed the heater core until clear water was coming out. repeated process for 30 mins flushing the heater core both in n out lets. reconnected the heater core. topped off the coolant. ran the vehicle at 2500 for 5 mins to warm the engine up. verified i had heat on high let the car idle for 30 mins still had heat.
some cases with the heat core being bad will have the following
1. smell of antifreeze when heater is in use
2. fog on the windshield plus the smell of antifreezr
3. passenger side floor will be wet
4. inlet hose will be hot but the outlet hose will be colder
5. vehicle runs slightly warmer then normal
6. lose of coolant over time
7. lack of heat
Proper flushing instructions
1. wait until vehicle has cooled down
2. remove the inlet and out let hose from the heater core at the firewall or engine compartment. making sure you have a drain pan to catch the antifreeze that will leak out.
3. using a garden house or small amount of air pressure from a blower will work also but both together will work the best.
4. being flushing the heater connect the house to one side at a time. repeat this for 30mins or longer depending on how bad your heater core is.
5. reconnect the hoses after you flushed the heater core
6. top off the coolant
7. run the engine until normal operation temperature verify you have heat
8. check for leaks
Here is a collection of videos of Current and Past Projects
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0RpbAavOM8a1bBPIqeiOdA
click the link above to check out the videos of what we have going on. i have a few restorations i took video of. we have painted a few drift cars. a 1965 datsun roadster has been fully restored. many more check it out
click the link above to check out the videos of what we have going on. i have a few restorations i took video of. we have painted a few drift cars. a 1965 datsun roadster has been fully restored. many more check it out
Automatic Transmission Service Info
Automatic Transmission Service
most Automatic transmission's need to be serviced every 20k-40k depending on make and model check your owners manual. this can be done by you but if you don't feel that you can do this one on your own most shops will charge $100-$180 depending on make and model (Jiffy Lube offers a transmission fluid service but here is the catch they DO NOT CHANGE YOUR FILTER they only cycle the fluid thru the transmission which is a good thing, the filter will still be clogged and you just paid for fresh fluid that cannot do its job correctly with a plugged filter. if a service is performed the filter and gasket needs to be changed and the correct fluid needs to be in the transmission for that make and model. failure to do so will result in a total failure of the transmission itself. you also have to make sure you have the correct amount of fluid to put back in most part stores have the capacity chart in there computer system when you are purchasing the fluid and filter and gasket. the average cost depending on make and model should be around 60-80 and take 45-1 1/2 hours to complete. here are the steps for you.
1. make sure u have all the supplies required refer to the basics
2. make sure you have the correct fluids
3. jack the vehicle up
4. use jack stands
5. grab a drain pan
6. use your tool set to remove the transmission oil pan (some automatics have a drain plug on them use google)
7. drain fluid and remove filter
8. clean the gasket off of the transmission and the transmission oil pan (use a razor blade)
9. apply new gasket (rubber gaskets are best but quick tip use RTV Silicone (ultra Black works best) apply a bead of silicone no wider then a number 2 pencil to the transmission pan and smear it lightly on the gasket mating service. then apply the new gasket and allow it to stick to the transmission pan itself before u install the transmission pan.
10. Install the new filter in the transmission
11. Install the Transmission pan in reverse order (make sure u use a cross hatch torque pattern Do Not over tighten the pan bolts just tighten until you feel a moderate amount of resistance ie you would have to stress hard to turn it more.
12. open the bottles of transmission fluid
13. using a funnel start pouring the bottles into the transmission do not over fill if the system calls for 4qts for a drain n refill then put back 3qts and start it. while it is running hold the brake pedal and cycle threw the gears from P to 1st a few times. some dodges have to be checked in Neutral but most of the time they have to be checked in park. wait for the vehicle to warm up while constantly checking the fluid level with the dipstick if you are within the normal range then you have nothing to worry about if you are a little off try adding a 1/16th of a qt and check again add until in the normal range for a warm engine.
After the service is performed take your vehicle out on a short drive to verify that the transmission is shifting correctly. also make sure to check for leaks also.
most Automatic transmission's need to be serviced every 20k-40k depending on make and model check your owners manual. this can be done by you but if you don't feel that you can do this one on your own most shops will charge $100-$180 depending on make and model (Jiffy Lube offers a transmission fluid service but here is the catch they DO NOT CHANGE YOUR FILTER they only cycle the fluid thru the transmission which is a good thing, the filter will still be clogged and you just paid for fresh fluid that cannot do its job correctly with a plugged filter. if a service is performed the filter and gasket needs to be changed and the correct fluid needs to be in the transmission for that make and model. failure to do so will result in a total failure of the transmission itself. you also have to make sure you have the correct amount of fluid to put back in most part stores have the capacity chart in there computer system when you are purchasing the fluid and filter and gasket. the average cost depending on make and model should be around 60-80 and take 45-1 1/2 hours to complete. here are the steps for you.
1. make sure u have all the supplies required refer to the basics
2. make sure you have the correct fluids
3. jack the vehicle up
4. use jack stands
5. grab a drain pan
6. use your tool set to remove the transmission oil pan (some automatics have a drain plug on them use google)
7. drain fluid and remove filter
8. clean the gasket off of the transmission and the transmission oil pan (use a razor blade)
9. apply new gasket (rubber gaskets are best but quick tip use RTV Silicone (ultra Black works best) apply a bead of silicone no wider then a number 2 pencil to the transmission pan and smear it lightly on the gasket mating service. then apply the new gasket and allow it to stick to the transmission pan itself before u install the transmission pan.
10. Install the new filter in the transmission
11. Install the Transmission pan in reverse order (make sure u use a cross hatch torque pattern Do Not over tighten the pan bolts just tighten until you feel a moderate amount of resistance ie you would have to stress hard to turn it more.
12. open the bottles of transmission fluid
13. using a funnel start pouring the bottles into the transmission do not over fill if the system calls for 4qts for a drain n refill then put back 3qts and start it. while it is running hold the brake pedal and cycle threw the gears from P to 1st a few times. some dodges have to be checked in Neutral but most of the time they have to be checked in park. wait for the vehicle to warm up while constantly checking the fluid level with the dipstick if you are within the normal range then you have nothing to worry about if you are a little off try adding a 1/16th of a qt and check again add until in the normal range for a warm engine.
After the service is performed take your vehicle out on a short drive to verify that the transmission is shifting correctly. also make sure to check for leaks also.
Welcome to Diy Auto Repair For Everyone
Getting starting i will show you how a car works. i will show u how to
diagnose issues with runablity issues, Electrical issues, Mechanical
issues, sensors , automotive computers (PCM,ECM,TCM,BCM), basic tune up
procedures, Flushing Coolant, Changing a Battery, Changing Brakes and
component's, Steering components,Fuel System, and Finally Transmission
Service and Maintenance.
4 Cylinder
150k-199k 10w-40w (Regular oil)
200k-300k 10w-40w or mix 10w-40w with 1qt to 2qts of 20w-50w or use lucas oil stabilizer it does work)
6 Cylinder150k-199k 10w-40w (Regular oil)
200k-300k 10w-40w or mix 10w-40w with 1qt to 2qts of 20w-50w or use lucas oil stabilizer it does work)
8 Cylinder150k-199k 10w-40w (Regular oil)
200k-300k mix 10w-40w with 1qt to 2qts of 20w-50w or use lucas oil stabilizer it does work) or 20w-50w only
you can use the oil filter of your choice also depends on budget if you want to spend 6.99 on the best one then by all means its your money the cheaper fram 3.99 will do the same job as the more expensive one.
Cooling system Flush
This is a common problem i have run into. my experience has taught me that you need to change your antifreeze at least every 2-3 yrs depending on climate. there are 3 types of coolant out on the market. check your owners manual or use Google to check what type your vehicel should have. one simple step is to pop your hood when the engine is COLD only and look at your coolant reservoir or take off your radiator cap if your car has one. usually they will twist off push down and turn to the left. if your car has green then use green usually cheaper. if you have red (dexcool) DO NOT PUT Green in there fully Drain and flush before you add Green Antifreeze. Orange :Organic Acid Technology (OAT) is a Long Life Coolant (LLC) / Extended Life Coolant (ELC) widely used in Europe before its introduction in North America. OAT is usually EG. The generally recommended replacement interval is five years or 150,000 miles; find out what the vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations are for your car or truck. Never Mix any of the antifreeze together that will cause nothing but problems it will turn into a brown sludge and plug your heater core and your radiator and can cause the thermostat to stick also Ive seen it happen. Signs of a good or bad cooling system operation
Signs of a good system
Coolant Fluid is the color it should be
heater works as it should
running at normal operating temp
Signs of a bad system
Coolant looks off as in black or rusty residue, looks like milky residue,sludge
Might start running hotter then normal
heater might not work as it used to
this is for Fords in general if you own a mercury sable or Taurus then i would suggest that you flush your cooling system at least once a year. years affected by this are 1996-2000 Taurus's and Sables. Ford stated in a TSB (tech service bulletin) that the heater core and easily plug up if not serviced at the correct time. on these you can easily flush them by removing the heater hose's located on the firewall on the lower middle to the passenger side. 2 hose clamps and a garden hose. never flush the engine with the heater core attached you run the risk of plugging your heater core.
Tune Up
This is a very common issue also. older cars you would have to perform this at least once every 2 yrs or less depending on your driving habits. if you have a newer car this should be done per the owners manual. most cars call for 100k then 200k. at this point the air filter should be changed at least every 30k or less depending on your driving habits or where you live. if you live in a sandy environment then i would suggest more often, also at this time check your Belts the life span of a serpine belt or v belt styles are about 30-50k. you can easily check this by opening your hood and looking around the engine compartment looking for the belt or belts. once u have located it make sure that its not fraying or ripped or cracking because that means your belt is needing to be changed. Spark Plug wires if your car has these then you want to inspect them for burn marks or melted wires. if a wire is melted or burned its time to change them. if you have a coil on spark plug no need to change the coil if its not running bad but you do have a coil boot to the spark plug. the coil boot to spark plug should be changed every time you change the spark plugs for best performance. Spark plugs depending on your driving habits. if you do alot of in town driving i would suggest that you change your spark plugs at least every 30k-60k of driving due to your not driving at a Constance speed. if you do alot of highway driving with average stop n go traffic i would suggest they are changed 50k-80k, i pulled a set of spark plugs out of a toyota corolla that had not been changed at the right time the electrode that makes the spark had burnt off and the spark plug was covered in black which means it was burning rich. here is a guide to tell if your engine is running fine or if there is a problem.
Spark Plugs
Black residue (Burning rich,lack of oxygen, lack of compression)
Black residue with oil (burning oil,Running Rich,lack of compression oil ring or bad valve guides) does ur vehicle smoke blue?
White residue (burning lean,lack of fuel,bad O2 sensor explain this one later,Possible exhaust restriction)
Tan (running fine no issues)
Air Filters
change these every 15k-20k you can use which ever one you want to its all comes down to money i am not going to tell you to spend 59.99 on a K&N if your driving a kia or like kinda vehicle. if you want to use a K&N i would only use those in performance cars only. the basic air filters are fine some range from 9.99-39.99 depends on your vehicle. you can change your own air filter its located in the engine compartment usually located in a large black box with a large hose going to the intake. usually no tools are needed to change it.
Ignition Cap and Ignition Rotor and Coil
if your car has a Cap n Rotor they should be changed at the time you change the plugs and wires. signs of a bad cap and rotor can include.
misfiring (rough idle, back firing, hard start, stumbles when you give it gas to go, No start)
once you pull the cap and rotor off of your car do not disconnect the spark plug wires yet if you can, if you cannot remove the distributor cap without removing the wire then make sure to mark them on the cap so that when you change it you do not mess up the firing order. visually inspect the cap and rotor. with the cap upside down you will see where the rotor contacts the cap and each cylinder.
Normal wear
slight burn marks on the terminals
slight black marks on the rotor
Bad signs
Massive burn marks
carbon tracing (where it jumps from one cylinder to another)
Missing terminals
Rotor has melted (yes this does happen)
Missing the Rotor button (wear the coil connects to the rotor)
Ignition Coil or Coils
the job of the ignition coil or coils is to supply spark to your engine to ignite the gas to make it run. fuel+Air+Spark=Run
if you have a faulty coil then you will notice that it doesn't run as it should as in
Misfires at idle (one or more cylinders check engine light codes if available)
stumbles (worse when warm)
Black smoke out of the tail pipe
Bad gas mileage
Randomly dies
Hard start after warm
burned coil electrode (spark plug wire connects)
Diagnosing Basic Problems
To start with a very common problem that plagues us now and days when should i perform Basic maintenance to ensure longevity of my vehicle. its always a step in the right direction to change your oil every 2500-5000miles depending on regular oil or Synthetic based oils. Regular oil only lasts about 2500-3500 miles also depends on how much city or highway driving you are doing. Synthetic oils will last from 3000-5000 miles depending on the quality of the oil you used and your driving habits same as regular oil but it will last a little longer. if you car came out of the factory with regular based oil then use regular based oil in it. there will be no advantage to running a synthetic oil in your car if it didn't come from the factory that way.if you want to convert to regular oil once your car has higher mileage you can do that also. if your car has higher mileage then i would suggest a slight thicker weight oil u might as why would i do that well if your car has over 150k on it the bearings and the seals and the oil pump are starting to get weak might not seem like it but they are. here is what i have found works best based on mileage and engine size.4 Cylinder
150k-199k 10w-40w (Regular oil)
200k-300k 10w-40w or mix 10w-40w with 1qt to 2qts of 20w-50w or use lucas oil stabilizer it does work)
6 Cylinder150k-199k 10w-40w (Regular oil)
200k-300k 10w-40w or mix 10w-40w with 1qt to 2qts of 20w-50w or use lucas oil stabilizer it does work)
8 Cylinder150k-199k 10w-40w (Regular oil)
200k-300k mix 10w-40w with 1qt to 2qts of 20w-50w or use lucas oil stabilizer it does work) or 20w-50w only
you can use the oil filter of your choice also depends on budget if you want to spend 6.99 on the best one then by all means its your money the cheaper fram 3.99 will do the same job as the more expensive one.
Cooling system Flush
This is a common problem i have run into. my experience has taught me that you need to change your antifreeze at least every 2-3 yrs depending on climate. there are 3 types of coolant out on the market. check your owners manual or use Google to check what type your vehicel should have. one simple step is to pop your hood when the engine is COLD only and look at your coolant reservoir or take off your radiator cap if your car has one. usually they will twist off push down and turn to the left. if your car has green then use green usually cheaper. if you have red (dexcool) DO NOT PUT Green in there fully Drain and flush before you add Green Antifreeze. Orange :Organic Acid Technology (OAT) is a Long Life Coolant (LLC) / Extended Life Coolant (ELC) widely used in Europe before its introduction in North America. OAT is usually EG. The generally recommended replacement interval is five years or 150,000 miles; find out what the vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations are for your car or truck. Never Mix any of the antifreeze together that will cause nothing but problems it will turn into a brown sludge and plug your heater core and your radiator and can cause the thermostat to stick also Ive seen it happen. Signs of a good or bad cooling system operation
Signs of a good system
Coolant Fluid is the color it should be
heater works as it should
running at normal operating temp
Signs of a bad system
Coolant looks off as in black or rusty residue, looks like milky residue,sludge
Might start running hotter then normal
heater might not work as it used to
this is for Fords in general if you own a mercury sable or Taurus then i would suggest that you flush your cooling system at least once a year. years affected by this are 1996-2000 Taurus's and Sables. Ford stated in a TSB (tech service bulletin) that the heater core and easily plug up if not serviced at the correct time. on these you can easily flush them by removing the heater hose's located on the firewall on the lower middle to the passenger side. 2 hose clamps and a garden hose. never flush the engine with the heater core attached you run the risk of plugging your heater core.
Tune Up
This is a very common issue also. older cars you would have to perform this at least once every 2 yrs or less depending on your driving habits. if you have a newer car this should be done per the owners manual. most cars call for 100k then 200k. at this point the air filter should be changed at least every 30k or less depending on your driving habits or where you live. if you live in a sandy environment then i would suggest more often, also at this time check your Belts the life span of a serpine belt or v belt styles are about 30-50k. you can easily check this by opening your hood and looking around the engine compartment looking for the belt or belts. once u have located it make sure that its not fraying or ripped or cracking because that means your belt is needing to be changed. Spark Plug wires if your car has these then you want to inspect them for burn marks or melted wires. if a wire is melted or burned its time to change them. if you have a coil on spark plug no need to change the coil if its not running bad but you do have a coil boot to the spark plug. the coil boot to spark plug should be changed every time you change the spark plugs for best performance. Spark plugs depending on your driving habits. if you do alot of in town driving i would suggest that you change your spark plugs at least every 30k-60k of driving due to your not driving at a Constance speed. if you do alot of highway driving with average stop n go traffic i would suggest they are changed 50k-80k, i pulled a set of spark plugs out of a toyota corolla that had not been changed at the right time the electrode that makes the spark had burnt off and the spark plug was covered in black which means it was burning rich. here is a guide to tell if your engine is running fine or if there is a problem.
Spark Plugs
Black residue (Burning rich,lack of oxygen, lack of compression)
Black residue with oil (burning oil,Running Rich,lack of compression oil ring or bad valve guides) does ur vehicle smoke blue?
White residue (burning lean,lack of fuel,bad O2 sensor explain this one later,Possible exhaust restriction)
Tan (running fine no issues)
Air Filters
change these every 15k-20k you can use which ever one you want to its all comes down to money i am not going to tell you to spend 59.99 on a K&N if your driving a kia or like kinda vehicle. if you want to use a K&N i would only use those in performance cars only. the basic air filters are fine some range from 9.99-39.99 depends on your vehicle. you can change your own air filter its located in the engine compartment usually located in a large black box with a large hose going to the intake. usually no tools are needed to change it.
Ignition Cap and Ignition Rotor and Coil
if your car has a Cap n Rotor they should be changed at the time you change the plugs and wires. signs of a bad cap and rotor can include.
misfiring (rough idle, back firing, hard start, stumbles when you give it gas to go, No start)
once you pull the cap and rotor off of your car do not disconnect the spark plug wires yet if you can, if you cannot remove the distributor cap without removing the wire then make sure to mark them on the cap so that when you change it you do not mess up the firing order. visually inspect the cap and rotor. with the cap upside down you will see where the rotor contacts the cap and each cylinder.
Normal wear
slight burn marks on the terminals
slight black marks on the rotor
Bad signs
Massive burn marks
carbon tracing (where it jumps from one cylinder to another)
Missing terminals
Rotor has melted (yes this does happen)
Missing the Rotor button (wear the coil connects to the rotor)
Ignition Coil or Coils
the job of the ignition coil or coils is to supply spark to your engine to ignite the gas to make it run. fuel+Air+Spark=Run
if you have a faulty coil then you will notice that it doesn't run as it should as in
Misfires at idle (one or more cylinders check engine light codes if available)
stumbles (worse when warm)
Black smoke out of the tail pipe
Bad gas mileage
Randomly dies
Hard start after warm
burned coil electrode (spark plug wire connects)
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